Can Liquid Nails Work on Cabinetry Hardware
Keeping Cabinets on the Wall
Sturdy construction and potent attachments are key prophylactic factors. May 4, 2005
Question
I take but installed an upper that weighed more nearly typical uppers (58"x46") and am wondering if #10 3" screws in 3 studs in upper and lower nailer is sufficient (half dozen full screws in centre of each stud). Chiffonier volition concur dishware and wine.
Forum Responses
(Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum)
From correspondent J:
When I hang large cabinets, the get-go affair I do is brand certain the cabinet has enough screws in the nailers to hold it together. So I put Liquid Nails on the back of the cab and hitting every stud possible with as many screws as possible. I take seen cabinets heavily loaded come apart while hanging on the wall. If you can use some kind of hanging cleat, that always helps.
From contributor One thousand:
How do you lot fabricate your cabs?
From the original questioner:
Box is 3/4" veneer core birch. Face frame is 3/iv" hardwood. 3/4" deck dadoed top rabbeted. Glued and ii 1/ii" finish nailed. Pinnacle nailer is 2 1/4" stop nailed to sides of box and multiple nails through top of box. Lesser nailer is three/4" glued and multiple staples. Both ends are finished so back is rabbeted and stapled. I've never had a trouble in the past, but this one is bigger than near I've made.
From correspondent E:
Side by side time, just to let yous slumber at dark, secure a 12" wide x 3/iv" ten full length capitalist board into the wall with every bit many screws and as much glue as you can, located behind the upper nailer, and secure the cabinet to that (and the lesser nailer also, of course). I would prefer to use a hanging (or French) cleat and after the cabinet is set, secure it in position with a couple of nails in unobtrusive corners. Your cabinet construction sounds just fine, though you might want to become dorsum in a couple months on some pretext and check to make sure the cabinet is non racking.
From contributor A:
I have to share this story. Last year a lady came into our store and had us cost a set of wall cabinets for the garage wall. The toll was as well steep for her hubby'due south taste (although they are very wealthy), then he went to the big orange store and bought some cheapos and hung them himself. In the middle of the nighttime, they heard a loud crash and in the morning found the cabinets laying across the hood of her spankin' new Mercedes. The back of the cabs were still attached to the wall. They bought our cabinets.
From correspondent R:
Cabs coming off the wall are what my nightmares are fabricated of.
Typically, I build my cases from iii/4" ply. Acme is rabbeted into sides and glued and nailed in place. Deck is total dado into sides at 1 1/4" from bottom for 2" FF cabs, rabbeted otherwise same as summit for frameless. Back is glued in groove with nailers backside. Nailers are glued to backs, sides, and top/deck and pocket screwed into sides and nailed to top/deck. Because the nailers are totally hidden, I tin can switch the top one out for French cleats when desired for specific jobs or exit as plain nailers.
I have not had a cab pull apart yet, but am wondering if putting screws through the sides and into the meridian/lesser would make them stronger or be overkill. The screws would exist hidden by adjoining cabs or cease panels, and so putting them in won't hurt the appearance. I'm just wondering if it'd be too much.
From contributor O:
We glue, nail and spiral every cabinet including the nailers. Some people say it is too much, but none of u.s.a. lose whatever sleep at nighttime. When nosotros take a long run of large uppers, we put them together with sleeve screws or sex bolts simply for added security.
I had a call ane day from my dominate that one of our cabs fell off of the wall on acme of someone. I went to see most information technology and when I got there, the starting time thing I saw was the back all the same hanging on the wall. The builder simply nailed the cabinet together. The office girl loaded the cab total of copy paper and when some other lady opened the door to get some, the whole affair came down on top of her. Lucky for the states, she was okay. The builder was fired.
From correspondent B:
Why don't you simply use iii/4" material for the back? Makes assembly easy and no nailers to spike, and the box is rigid and square. Works for me.
From contributor M:
Use a hanging cleat and construction adhesive like others take mentioned. You may likewise desire to dado this one into sides instead of just rabbet.
From contributor T:
Yes. What is incorrect with 3/4 backs screwed and glued on? Y'all can rabbet the sides to accept the back for whatsoever cease cabs. Does it save more coin in materials than time to mess with nailers?
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